The Tokyo vogue scene continues to steer the pack in contemporary streetwear tendencies and worldwide haute prowess, not less than if the collections unveiled at Amazon Fashion Week Tokyo in mid-October are something to go by.
On-line retailer Amazon lastly flexed its muscular tissues this season with the presentation of its “AT Tokyo” program, inviting among the most well-known or buzzed-about manufacturers in Japan to the catwalk and promoting unique gadgets on-line.
The womenswear lineup this season was fairly spectacular, that includes a Sacai/Undercover joint present and Toga, amongst others. Attracting Sacai to current its newest assortment was an actual scoop. The label is arguably some of the sought-after manufacturers in excessive vogue, with Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld even anointing the model’s designer, Chitose Abe, as the subsequent huge factor.
In the meantime, Undercover designer Jun Takahashi has been skipping Tokyo’s vogue week to showcase his collections in Paris for 15 years. His spring/summer season assortment was noteworthy, with the clothes worn by “twins” within the fashion of “The Shining” and that includes designs impressed by the work of artist Cindy Sherman.
Takahashi’s collections are sometimes offered in a darkish dream-like state, and his spring/summer season present was certain to ship goosebumps by way of the gang. Takahashi is without doubt one of the finest “storytellers of vogue” that exist within the trade and it was a deal with to see him back on his home turf.
Toga designer Yasuko Furuta celebrated the label’s 20th anniversary with a set that was proven on the Nationwide Artwork Middle, Tokyo. Though Furuta normally presents her designs in London, she delivered a very totally different lineup in Tokyo. The clothes had been poignant homages to all the things that makes Toga distinctive, and featured components comparable to summary reduce-outs, modern silhouettes and androgynous styling.
On the different finish of the Tokyo vogue spectrum sits streetwear, which has been discovering its method to the catwalk lately. Avenue-fashion icon and DJ Mademoiselle Yulia took the type of chaos usually present in Tokyo and transplanted it onto Rising Pains‘ second assortment as a mashup of concepts, together with large prairie sleeves, poly vinyl coats, pop-impressed graphics and even martial arts gear.
Akiko Aoki was arguably the very best new label presenting at Tokyo vogue week. Her garments tick all of the packing containers of what younger fashion-delicate girls in Japan now need — gadgets which can be edgy with out being provocative, all of the whereas bathed in dusty pastels. Aoki offered a collection of pink creations that included bondage-impressed particulars that had the viewers’s smartphones working extra time to catch each merchandise on show.
One other new label throughout the week was Memuse, which was produced by idol group Dempagumi.inc member Risa Aizawa. As a former Akihabara maid, her assortment included many maid-uniform motifs in addition to anime-impressed appears to be like that will match proper in with a cosplayer’s wardrobe. “My assortment is designed to be on a regular basis clothes to put on in battle,” Aizawa says.
Veteran designer and self-professed otakuMikio Sakabe, who's an adviser for Memuse, offered a set that was alongside related traces. Sakabe has the uncommon capability to remodel fantasy into actuality, pushing the boundaries of Japanese avant-garde within the 21st century. He says he tried to make genuine kimonos for this assortment however discovered it to be such a frightening process that he as a substitute paid homage by way of conventional stitching methods and materials.
Talking of the avant-garde, Malaysian designer Moto Guo unveiled a standout assortment, presenting the label’s extremely “female” appears to be like on male fashions. The genderless motion — consisting of gender-impartial clothes — is without doubt one of the most refreshing tendencies to come back out of Tokyo lately. Sakabe initiated the motion, however it hasn’t taken lengthy for the fashion to develop into normalized sufficient to be cute as a substitute of stunning. Let’s wait and see if the remainder of the world agrees.