PARIS, France — When Demna Gvasalia calls his Vetements mission “a inventive lab of concepts,” he’s speaking about an entire lot greater than style. Now that he’s arrange in his pristine new headquarters in Zurich, the place a tidy surroundings begets a tidy thoughts, the garments have gotten a platform for a bunch of different actions. That a lot was apparent from the Vetements presentation in Paris on Saturday.
OK, it was in an enormous, ugly concrete automobile park, and we’re all accustomed to the enchantment of the brutalist anonymity of a concrete automobile park to a sure phase of style’s avant-garde. And Gvasalia’s automobile park was the municipal one, the place disgruntled residents must go to reclaim their tow-aways. A monument to dangerous vibes, then.
Besides he made it higher. The solar shone, the music performed and the partitions had been lined along with his large portraits of individuals in Zurich carrying the brand new assortment. That was the “present.”
The 'fashions' had been proven an image and requested to duplicate the pose, in the event that they so selected. The request yielded some fabulous outcomes.
The presentation was a form of love letter to Gvasalia’s new hometown, sixty photos of bizarre Swiss individuals scouted on the road. “It might be the lookbook of the final present,” he mentioned, referring to the gathering of socio-financial archetypes he herded by way of the Centre Pompidou for Autumn/Winter. “However right here it turned extra human. It’s about actual individuals.”
His avenue forged styled themselves. Gvasalia mentioned that, for them, it was like buying. As an illustration, the black cousins (“Future’s Little one” he referred to as them) got here in and headed straight for the black leather-based. “It might be this on the road,” he mentioned. “It’s probably not style.” Bear in mind these phrases.
The shoot itself was an intense 4 days. The “fashions,” had been proven an image and requested to duplicate the pose, in the event that they so selected. The request yielded some fabulous outcomes. The child within the barre pose? He used to do ballet. The grande dame? She was as soon as a mannequin. The offended previous man? “He selected anger, as a result of that was his concept of style,” says Gvasalia.
Trying on the photos, you sense sure set-up ironies within the juxtapositions. “That is truly how it's there,” the designer clarifies. The man outdoors SwissLife, for example. “He’s carrying a Vetements double shirt which you'll be able to open from the again and that instantly provides you one thing fairly perverse,” Gvasalia says. “He truly does work in an insurance coverage firm, and people guys are already a bit spooky, perverse."
You’re variety of on the lookout for that subtext with the whole lot the Gvasalia brothers do. Just like the Balenciaga present within the Bois de Boulogne the opposite day, the place the looming presence of Kyle MacLachlan, AKA Agent Cooper from "Twin Peaks", made individuals take into consideration perverse goings-on in woods darkish and deep. There was a flavour of that within the Vetements presentation as nicely. Each episode of the brand new iteration of David Lynch’s television sequence concludes with a convincing efficiency by an unjustifiably little-recognized band, virtually as if Lynch is carrying an A&R hat among the many many different guises he assumes on "Twin Peaks". Demna’s stay efficiency was a Viennese combo referred to as Lovehotelband, as anomic but mesmerising as any Lynch discovery. David, look them up.
However steadiness that ambiguous subtext with Gvasalia’s contentment in his new residence. “It’s the exact opposite of Paris, no stress, no rush,” he says. “There’s by no means been a warfare there so the individuals are in a great temper. Very egocentric however very completely satisfied.” He describes the photograph shoot as a technique to combine Vetements into the neighborhood. Gvasalia made associates. The “Future’s Little one” cousins have invited him to exit on the lake with them subsequent week.
And in case you have a look at these photos, and mirror on the cool-dad-ophilia of the Balenciaga present, you’d be nicely inside your rights to think about that Demna’s getting broody.