Fashion Week – New York Times

Who Works Where? A Guide for Fashion Week

The biggest names behind fashion’s main event, in New York, London, Milan and Paris.

The Designers, House by House

The fashion job market often experiences something like a domino effect: One designer leaves his or her job for another, vacating a post that needs to be filled — and so on. There’s been so much change recently, it can be easy to lose track of who works where. Here, a guide to new names in the business, as well as some of the old pros, including Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace and more.
Swipe to see more designers. Tap on each person below for more information.
Mouse over each person below for more information.
Alexander McQueen
Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen's longtime collaborator, took over as creative director after his death in 2010.
Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang started his own label in 2005. He became the creative director of Balenciaga in 2012, following Nicolas Ghesquière's's departure, but parted ways with the company in 2015.
Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester announced that she would leave her eponymous brand in 2014; she was replaced soon after by Sebastien Meunier.
Balenciaga
Demna Gvasalia started the fashion collective Vetements in 2014 after working at Maison Margiela and Louis Vuitton; he was named artistic director of Balenciaga in October 2015.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing, the former head of ready-to-wear at Roberto Cavalli, was appointed the creative director of Balmain in 2011 — at age 24.
Berluti
Haider Ackermann founded his eponymous line in 2002. In September 2016, he was announced as Berluti's new creative director, and presented his first collection that fall.
Bottega Veneta
Tomas Maier became the creative director of Bottega Veneta in 2001, and oversees everything from the brand's men's and women's collections to furniture and fragrances. He also designs his namesake line.
Brioni
The house named its first female creative director in June 2017: Nina-Maria Nitsche, who worked with Martin Margiela for two decades until he left his own label. She will show her first collection in January 2018 — and has yet to be photographed in an official capacity.
Burberry
Christopher Bailey joined Burberry in 2001 as design director. In 2009, he became its chief creative officer, overseeing all creative elements of the brand.
Calvin Klein
After seven years at the helm of Jil Sander, Raf Simons joined Dior as creative director in 2012 and left in 2015. He was then appointed the creative director of Calvin Klein, overseeing all of its men’s and women’s brands, in August 2016 — and presented his first collections for the fall/winter 2017 season.
Canali
The Italian designer Andrea Pompilio exited the men's wear brand in April 2016; a successor has not yet been named.
Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera launched her namesake line in 1981 — followed by a diffusion line, CH, in 2001.
Carven
Serge Ruffieux became the house’s creative director Feb. 1, 2017, following the departure of the duo Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud. Ruffieux worked under Raf Simons at Dior and co-designed four collections after Simons left.
Céline
Phoebe Philo, former creative director of Chloé, has been at the helm of Céline since 2008.
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld has been the creative director of Fendi since 1965, the creative director of Chanel since 1982 and has run his namesake line since 1984.
Chloé
The Nicolas Ghesquière protegée Natacha Ramsay-Levi will show her inaugural collection as the brand’s creative director in September 2017. She succeeds Clare Waight Keller, who held the position for six years, until March 2017.
Coach
Stuart Vevers, formerly of Mulberry and Loewe, joined Coach in 2013 — and now oversees all creative aspects of the house.
Comme des Garcons
Rei Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçons in 1969. She created the multibrand retail concept store Dover Street Market with her husband, Adrian Joffe, in 2004.
Courrèges
In July 2017, the house announced the departure of its artistic directors, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, after two years. A replacement has not yet been named.
Diane von Furstenberg
In May 2016, Diane von Furstenberg appointed the Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders as the chief creative officer of her namesake brand.
Delpozo
Josep Font, an architecture student who started his own clothing label in 1991, became Delpozo’s creative director in 2012 — the year after the Spanish brand’s founder died.
Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri spent eight years as the co-designer of Valentino before she was officially appointed as creative director of Christian Dior in July 2017. She presented her first collection for the spring/summer 2017 season.
DKNY
The Public School designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, who were tapped as the creative directors of DKNY in April 2015, departed in December 2016 — along with the brand’s C.E.O.
Dolce & Gabbana
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana founded Dolce & Gabbana in 1985.
Dries Van Noten
The Belgian designer Dries Van Noten, one of the original Antwerp Six, has designed his eponymous label since 1986.
Emanuel Ungaro
Marco Colagrossi, formerly a women’s wear designer at Giorgio Armani, was appointed artistic director of Ungaro in March 2017. He replaces Fausto Puglisi, who had been at the helm since 2012.
Emilio Pucci
Massimo Giorgetti, who succeeded Peter Dundas as the creative director in 2015, exited the LVMH-owned brand in April 2017. A replacement has yet to be announced.
Ermenegildo Zegna
Alessandro Sartori designed Z Zegna, Ermenegildo Zegna's sportswear collection, for eight years before joining Berluti in 2011. In February 2016, it was announced he would return to Zegna, as its artistic director.
Etro
Etro has remained a family affair since its inception in 1968; Veronica Etro, the daughter of the founder Gimmo, is the creative director of the women’s wear collection and her brother Kean designs the house’s men’s wear.
Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi joined her family business in 1987, and now oversees the house's accessories and men's wear, while Karl Lagerfeld designs women's ready-to-wear.
Giambattista Valli
An alum of Emanuel Ungaro, Giambattista Valli launched his own line in 2005, and began designing couture in 2011.
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani founded his namesake brand in 1975, and has since grown it to include the Giorgio Armani Privé couture line.
Givenchy
Clare Waight Keller, formerly of Chloé, was anointed the first female artistic director of Givenchy, which was helmed by Riccardo Tisci for 12 years. Her first collection of both women’s and men’s wear debuts in September 2017.
Gucci
Alessandro Michele, Gucci's former head of accessories, replaced Frida Giannini shortly after her departure in 2014.
Hermès
Nadège Vahee-Cybulski, formerly of the Row, Maison Martin Margiela and Céline, took over women's wear at Hermès after Christophe Lemaire's departure in 2014.
Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant launched her eponymous line in 1995, and has been at the helm ever since.
Jason Wu
Jason Wu founded his eponymous label in 2006. In 2013, he also became the artistic director of Hugo Boss women's wear.
Jil Sander
The husband-and-wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier became the brand’s creative directors in April 2017, replacing Rodolfo Paglialunga. Luke was the head designer of Supreme for eight years before launching his own men’s line, OAMC; Lucie is an alumna of Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and Dior.
Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe founded his own brand under the Comme des Garçons label in 1993.
Kenzo
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim launched the boutique and clothing line Opening Ceremony in 2002. In 2011, they also became the creative directors of the French house Kenzo, which they have revived.
Lanvin
The designer Olivier Lapidus, who runs his own namesake line, was named the artistic director of Lanvin’s women’s wear line in July 2017. He replaces Bouchra Jarrar, who succeeded Alber Elbaz in March 2016 and exited after only a year. Lapidus’s first collection debuts in September.
Lemaire
Christophe Lemaire left Hermès in 2014 to design his own label, Lemaire. He is also the artistic director at Uniqlo's Paris R&D Centre.
Loewe
Jonathan Anderson launched his own men's wear brand in 2008, and added women's in 2010. He became the creative director for the Spanish luxury house Loewe in 2013, overseeing both men's and women's.
Louis Vuitton
Replacing Marc Jacobs as the artistic director of women's collections, Nicolas Ghesquière, formerly of Balenciaga, took the reins at Louis Vuitton in late 2013.
Maison Margiela
After a disgraced exit from from Dior in 2011, John Galliano returned in 2015 as the creative director of Maison Margiela.
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs founded his eponymous label in 1986. He spent 16 years at the helm of Louis Vuitton, and left in 2013.
Marni
The 33-year-old Prada alumnus Francesco Risso made his designing debut for the house at the Milan men’s wear shows in January 2017 — assuming the mantle from Consuelo Castiglioni, who decided to step away from the brand she founded in 1994.
Michael Kors
Michael Kors started his company in 1981 and has continued at the helm ever since. He also served as the creative director of Céline from 1997 to 2003.
Missoni
Angela Missoni, the house’s current creative director, assumed the mantle in 1997. She had her own label beforehand.
Moschino
Jeremy Scott, who has designed for Adidas and costumed pop stars including Katy Perry and Britney Spears, became the creative director of Moschino in 2013. He also designs his namesake line.
Mulberry
Johnny Coca was the accessories design director of Céline before he was appointed as Mulberry's creative director in 2014.
Nina Ricci
In 2015, following in the footsteps of Olivier Theyskens and Peter Copping, Carven alum Guillaume Henry became the creative director of Nina Ricci.
Oscar de la Renta
Following Oscar de la Renta's death in 2014, Peter Copping took the helm, but departed in July 2016 with no appointed successor. That September, it was announced that Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, both alums of the house who left to found Monse, would become the new creative directors.
Prada
Miuccia Prada started designing for her family's leather goods company in 1985 and developed it into the powerhouse that it is today. She also heads Miu Miu, which she established in 1993.
Proenza Schouler
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who met as students at the Parsons School of Design, launched Proenza Schouler when they sold their entire senior thesis collection to Barneys in 2002.
Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone, which began in 2002, was helmed by Marcus Wainwright and David Neville for 10 years, until the latter's departure in 2016.
Ralph Lauren
A Bronx native, Ralph Lauren started his namesake company in 1967, calling the line Polo.
Rick Owens
Rick Owens launched his namesake brand in 1994.
Roberto Cavalli
Paul Surridge was appointed creative director in May 2017; his résumé includes Burberry, Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, Z Zegna and Acne Studios. Surridge succeeds Peter Dundas and will show his debut collection in September.
Rochas
After closing his namesake brand seven years ago, Alessandro Dell'Acqua took the helm at Rochas in 2013 and started another label, No.21, in 2010.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello, who has designed both his own label and Donatella Versace’s Versus line, took over as Saint Laurent creative director in April 2016, following Hedi Slimane’s short but memorable tenure.
Salvatore Ferragamo
After Massimiliano Giornetti stepped down as creative director in March 2016, the brand has appointed a trio of design directors: Fulvio Rigoni for women’s wear, Guillaume Meilland for men’s wear and Paul Andrew for shoes.
Schiaparelli
An alumnus of Givenchy, Lacroix and Valentino, Bertrand Guyon presented his first Schiaparelli collection in July 2015, after Marco Zanini showed only two collections for the long-dormant house.
Sonia Rykiel
Julie de Libran, who put in 10 years at Prada and six at Louis Vuitton, joined Sonia Rykiel as artistic director in May 2014, putting the house back on track after Rykiel’s exit in 2009.
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney led Chloé for four years before launching her eponymous line in 2001.
Thom Browne
Thom Browne founded his brand in 2001 and has designed the Moncler Gamme Bleu collection since 2008.
Tod’s
Under the women’s wear creative director Alessandra Facchinetti, who left the brand in May 2016 after three years, Tod’s shifted its focus from accessories to clothing. A replacement has not yet been named.
Tom Ford
Tom Ford helmed Gucci from 1994 to 2004 — and Yves Saint Laurent from 1999 to 2004, when the brand (except for its couture house) was sold to the Gucci Group. He launched his eponymous label in 2006.
Tommy Hilfiger
After limited experience that included designing for Jordache Jeans, Tommy Hilfiger introduced his own line in 1985.
Tory Burch
After a career rooted in PR and advertising (for Vera Wang, Ralph Lauren and Loewe), Tory Burch started her own clothing brand in 2004.
Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli became the sole creative director of Valentino in July 2016, after Maria Grazia Chiuri — who had shared the position with him since 2008 — decamped to Dior.
Versace
Donatella Versace became Versace’s artistic director in 1997 after the death of her brother Gianni, who founded the label in 1978.
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham introduced her own women’s wear in 2008.
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood established her line in 1971, which she currently designs alongside her husband, Andreas Kronthaler. She launched her lower-priced Red Label in 1993.
Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto founded his eponymous house in 1981 and also designs the Y-3 label in collaboration with Adidas.
Alexander McQueen
Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen's longtime collaborator, took over as creative director after his death in 2010.
Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang started his own label in 2005. He became the creative director of Balenciaga in 2012, following Nicolas Ghesquière's's departure, but parted ways with the company in 2015.
Ann Demeulemeester
Ann Demeulemeester announced that she would leave her eponymous brand in 2014; she was replaced soon after by Sebastien Meunier.
Balenciaga
Demna Gvasalia started the fashion collective Vetements in 2014 after working at Maison Margiela and Louis Vuitton; he was named artistic director of Balenciaga in October 2015.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing, the former head of ready-to-wear at Roberto Cavalli, was appointed the creative director of Balmain in 2011 — at age 24.
Berluti
Haider Ackermann founded his eponymous line in 2002. In September 2016, he was announced as Berluti's new creative director, and presented his first collection that fall.
Bottega Veneta
Tomas Maier became the creative director of Bottega Veneta in 2001, and oversees everything from the brand's men's and women's collections to furniture and fragrances. He also designs his namesake line.
Brioni
The house named its first female creative director in June 2017: Nina-Maria Nitsche, who worked with Martin Margiela for two decades until he left his own label. She will show her first collection in January 2018 — and has yet to be photographed in an official capacity.
Burberry
Christopher Bailey joined Burberry in 2001 as design director. In 2009, he became its chief creative officer, overseeing all creative elements of the brand.
Calvin Klein
After seven years at the helm of Jil Sander, Raf Simons joined Dior as creative director in 2012 and left in 2015. He was then appointed the creative director of Calvin Klein, overseeing all of its men’s and women’s brands, in August 2016 — and presented his first collections for the fall/winter 2017 season.
Canali
The Italian designer Andrea Pompilio exited the men's wear brand in April 2016; a successor has not yet been named.
Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera launched her namesake line in 1981 — followed by a diffusion line, CH, in 2001.
Carven
Serge Ruffieux became the house’s creative director Feb. 1, 2017, following the departure of the duo Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud. Ruffieux worked under Raf Simons at Dior and co-designed four collections after Simons left.
Céline
Phoebe Philo, former creative director of Chloé, has been at the helm of Céline since 2008.
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld has been the creative director of Fendi since 1965, the creative director of Chanel since 1982 and has run his namesake line since 1984.
Chloé
The Nicolas Ghesquière protegée Natacha Ramsay-Levi will show her inaugural collection as the brand’s creative director in September 2017. She succeeds Clare Waight Keller, who held the position for six years, until March 2017.
Coach
Stuart Vevers, formerly of Mulberry and Loewe, joined Coach in 2013 — and now oversees all creative aspects of the house.
Comme des Garcons
Rei Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçons in 1969. She created the multibrand retail concept store Dover Street Market with her husband, Adrian Joffe, in 2004.
Courrèges
In July 2017, the house announced the departure of its artistic directors, Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, after two years. A replacement has not yet been named.
Diane von Furstenberg
In May 2016, Diane von Furstenberg appointed the Scottish designer Jonathan Saunders as the chief creative officer of her namesake brand.
Delpozo
Josep Font, an architecture student who started his own clothing label in 1991, became Delpozo’s creative director in 2012 — the year after the Spanish brand’s founder died.
Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri spent eight years as the co-designer of Valentino before she was officially appointed as creative director of Christian Dior in July 2017. She presented her first collection for the spring/summer 2017 season.
DKNY
The Public School designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne, who were tapped as the creative directors of DKNY in April 2015, departed in December 2016 — along with the brand’s C.E.O.
Dolce & Gabbana
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana founded Dolce & Gabbana in 1985.
Dries Van Noten
The Belgian designer Dries Van Noten, one of the original Antwerp Six, has designed his eponymous label since 1986.
Emanuel Ungaro
Marco Colagrossi, formerly a women’s wear designer at Giorgio Armani, was appointed artistic director of Ungaro in March 2017. He replaces Fausto Puglisi, who had been at the helm since 2012.
Emilio Pucci
Massimo Giorgetti, who succeeded Peter Dundas as the creative director in 2015, exited the LVMH-owned brand in April 2017. A replacement has yet to be announced.
Ermenegildo Zegna
Alessandro Sartori designed Z Zegna, Ermenegildo Zegna's sportswear collection, for eight years before joining Berluti in 2011. In February 2016, it was announced he would return to Zegna, as its artistic director.
Etro
Etro has remained a family affair since its inception in 1968; Veronica Etro, the daughter of the founder Gimmo, is the creative director of the women’s wear collection and her brother Kean designs the house’s men’s wear.
Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi joined her family business in 1987, and now oversees the house's accessories and men's wear, while Karl Lagerfeld designs women's ready-to-wear.
Giambattista Valli
An alum of Emanuel Ungaro, Giambattista Valli launched his own line in 2005, and began designing couture in 2011.
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani founded his namesake brand in 1975, and has since grown it to include the Giorgio Armani Privé couture line.
Givenchy
Clare Waight Keller, formerly of Chloé, was anointed the first female artistic director of Givenchy, which was helmed by Riccardo Tisci for 12 years. Her first collection of both women’s and men’s wear debuts in September 2017.
Gucci
Alessandro Michele, Gucci's former head of accessories, replaced Frida Giannini shortly after her departure in 2014.
Hermès
Nadège Vahee-Cybulski, formerly of the Row, Maison Martin Margiela and Céline, took over women's wear at Hermès after Christophe Lemaire's departure in 2014.
Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant launched her eponymous line in 1995, and has been at the helm ever since.
Jason Wu
Jason Wu founded his eponymous label in 2006. In 2013, he also became the artistic director of Hugo Boss women's wear.
Jil Sander
The husband-and-wife duo Luke and Lucie Meier became the brand’s creative directors in April 2017, replacing Rodolfo Paglialunga. Luke was the head designer of Supreme for eight years before launching his own men’s line, OAMC; Lucie is an alumna of Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and Dior.
Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe founded his own brand under the Comme des Garçons label in 1993.
Kenzo
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim launched the boutique and clothing line Opening Ceremony in 2002. In 2011, they also became the creative directors of the French house Kenzo, which they have revived.
Lanvin
The designer Olivier Lapidus, who runs his own namesake line, was named the artistic director of Lanvin’s women’s wear line in July 2017. He replaces Bouchra Jarrar, who succeeded Alber Elbaz in March 2016 and exited after only a year. Lapidus’s first collection debuts in September.
Lemaire
Christophe Lemaire left Hermès in 2014 to design his own label, Lemaire. He is also the artistic director at Uniqlo's Paris R&D Centre.
Loewe
Jonathan Anderson launched his own men's wear brand in 2008, and added women's in 2010. He became the creative director for the Spanish luxury house Loewe in 2013, overseeing both men's and women's.
Louis Vuitton
Replacing Marc Jacobs as the artistic director of women's collections, Nicolas Ghesquière, formerly of Balenciaga, took the reins at Louis Vuitton in late 2013.
Maison Margiela
After a disgraced exit from from Dior in 2011, John Galliano returned in 2015 as the creative director of Maison Margiela.
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs founded his eponymous label in 1986. He spent 16 years at the helm of Louis Vuitton, and left in 2013.
Marni
The 33-year-old Prada alumnus Francesco Risso made his designing debut for the house at the Milan men’s wear shows in January 2017 — assuming the mantle from Consuelo Castiglioni, who decided to step away from the brand she founded in 1994.
Michael Kors
Michael Kors started his company in 1981 and has continued at the helm ever since. He also served as the creative director of Céline from 1997 to 2003.
Missoni
Angela Missoni, the house’s current creative director, assumed the mantle in 1997. She had her own label beforehand.
Moschino
Jeremy Scott, who has designed for Adidas and costumed pop stars including Katy Perry and Britney Spears, became the creative director of Moschino in 2013. He also designs his namesake line.
Mulberry
Johnny Coca was the accessories design director of Céline before he was appointed as Mulberry's creative director in 2014.
Nina Ricci
In 2015, following in the footsteps of Olivier Theyskens and Peter Copping, Carven alum Guillaume Henry became the creative director of Nina Ricci.
Oscar de la Renta
Following Oscar de la Renta's death in 2014, Peter Copping took the helm, but departed in July 2016 with no appointed successor. That September, it was announced that Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, both alums of the house who left to found Monse, would become the new creative directors.
Prada
Miuccia Prada started designing for her family's leather goods company in 1985 and developed it into the powerhouse that it is today. She also heads Miu Miu, which she established in 1993.
Proenza Schouler
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who met as students at the Parsons School of Design, launched Proenza Schouler when they sold their entire senior thesis collection to Barneys in 2002.
Rag & Bone
Rag & Bone, which began in 2002, was helmed by Marcus Wainwright and David Neville for 10 years, until the latter's departure in 2016.
Ralph Lauren
A Bronx native, Ralph Lauren started his namesake company in 1967, calling the line Polo.
Rick Owens
Rick Owens launched his namesake brand in 1994.
Roberto Cavalli
Paul Surridge was appointed creative director in May 2017; his résumé includes Burberry, Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, Z Zegna and Acne Studios. Surridge succeeds Peter Dundas and will show his debut collection in September.
Rochas
After closing his namesake brand seven years ago, Alessandro Dell'Acqua took the helm at Rochas in 2013 and started another label, No.21, in 2010.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello, who has designed both his own label and Donatella Versace’s Versus line, took over as Saint Laurent creative director in April 2016, following Hedi Slimane’s short but memorable tenure.
Salvatore Ferragamo
After Massimiliano Giornetti stepped down as creative director in March 2016, the brand has appointed a trio of design directors: Fulvio Rigoni for women’s wear, Guillaume Meilland for men’s wear and Paul Andrew for shoes.
Schiaparelli
An alumnus of Givenchy, Lacroix and Valentino, Bertrand Guyon presented his first Schiaparelli collection in July 2015, after Marco Zanini showed only two collections for the long-dormant house.
Sonia Rykiel
Julie de Libran, who put in 10 years at Prada and six at Louis Vuitton, joined Sonia Rykiel as artistic director in May 2014, putting the house back on track after Rykiel’s exit in 2009.
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney led Chloé for four years before launching her eponymous line in 2001.
Thom Browne
Thom Browne founded his brand in 2001 and has designed the Moncler Gamme Bleu collection since 2008.
Tod’s
Under the women’s wear creative director Alessandra Facchinetti, who left the brand in May 2016 after three years, Tod’s shifted its focus from accessories to clothing. A replacement has not yet been named.
Tom Ford
Tom Ford helmed Gucci from 1994 to 2004 — and Yves Saint Laurent from 1999 to 2004, when the brand (except for its couture house) was sold to the Gucci Group. He launched his eponymous label in 2006.
Tommy Hilfiger
After limited experience that included designing for Jordache Jeans, Tommy Hilfiger introduced his own line in 1985.
Tory Burch
After a career rooted in PR and advertising (for Vera Wang, Ralph Lauren and Loewe), Tory Burch started her own clothing brand in 2004.
Valentino
Pierpaolo Piccioli became the sole creative director of Valentino in July 2016, after Maria Grazia Chiuri — who had shared the position with him since 2008 — decamped to Dior.
Versace
Donatella Versace became Versace’s artistic director in 1997 after the death of her brother Gianni, who founded the label in 1978.
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham introduced her own women’s wear in 2008.
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood established her line in 1971, which she currently designs alongside her husband, Andreas Kronthaler. She launched her lower-priced Red Label in 1993.
Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto founded his eponymous house in 1981 and also designs the Y-3 label in collaboration with Adidas.

The Free Agents

If fashion is a game of musical chairs, sometimes when the music stops, you are left without a seat. The designers below have left their posts at top houses for a host of reasons — and have yet to take up another position.
Tap on each person below for more information.
Mouse over each person below for more information.
Alber Elbaz
Alber Elbaz, who served as Lanvin’s creative director for 14 years, was fired in October 2015, reportedly as a result of running disputes with the brand’s owner. Bouchra Jarrar became the artistic director of women’s collections the following March.
Alessandra Facchinetti
After stints at Valentino and Gucci, Alessandra Facchinetti served as the creative director of women’s ready-to-wear at Tod’s from 2013 to 2016 before leaving to focus on other projects.
Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud
The duo became co-artistic directors for Carven in March 2015 and left in October 2016 as part of a mutual agreement with the brand. They met at fashion school in Paris and worked together for Alexander McQueen and Givenchy. (Martial also put in time at Iceberg and Caillaudaud at Marc Jacobs.) It’s unclear if they’ll travel to a new house as a pair.
Bouchra Jarrar
The French couturier Bouchra Jarrar put in a year as artistic director of Lanvin after Alber Elbaz’s departure in 2016. She previously worked at Balenciaga and had a namesake brand that she shuttered before joining Lanvin. In June 2017, she was awarded France’s Officer of the Order of Arts and Letters.
Francisco Costa
Francisco Costa left his post as the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection’s women’s wear line in April 2016 after a 13-year-long tenure. Raf Simons was named the house's first-ever chief creative officer in August 2016.
Frida Giannini
December 2014 saw the dual firings of the designer Frida Giannini and her partner, the chief executive Patrizio di Marco, from Gucci, allegedly due to sluggish sales. Giannini was replaced by her associate director, the then-little-known Alessandro Michele.
Hannah MacGibbon
Hannah MacGibbon started off as Phoebe Philo’s assistant at Chloé, ultimately helming the brand from 2008 to May 2011.
Hedi Slimane
In April 2016, Saint Laurent announced that Hedi Slimane would step down as the house’s creative director, a role he assumed in March 2012. Anthony Vaccarello took the reins — and Slimane is now rumored to be launching his own line.
Peter Copping
In July 2016, Oscar de la Renta disclosed that Peter Copping, who took over for the late designer in October 2014, would be leaving the brand to return home to Europe for personal reasons.
Peter Dundas
Following seven years at the helm of Emilio Pucci, Peter Dundas was appointed as the creative director of Roberto Cavalli in March 2015. The company announced his departure in October 2016 after only three seasons. In June 2017, Dundas launched his eponymous label.
Riccardo Tisci
After 12 years at Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci left the house amicably at the beginning of February 2017. His exit fuels speculation that he is headed to Versace, but Donatella and co. have stayed mum.
Rodolfo Paglialunga
The Italian designer Rodolfo Paglialunga stepped down as creative director of Jil Sander in April 2017 after a three-year tenure. He was formerly the creative director of Vionnet and the women’s design director at Prada.
Stefano Pilati
Stefano Pilati resigned as head of design for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture in February 2016, saying in a statement that he had fulfilled his mission for the brand. In June 2017, he debuted a unisex clothing collection, called Random Identities, on Instagram Stories, but it will be neither produced nor sold.

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