Elizabeth Paton
Elizabeth Paton
ON THE RUNWAY

LONDON — On this moist and windy Monday, deep in the underbelly of Soho Home, the British Fashion Council unveiled the nominees for the 2017 Fashion Awards — however the grand reveal was one thing of an anticlimax.

You possibly can blame it on the turmoil of Brexit, Britain’s choice to depart the European Union. Extra possible, and pervasive, nonetheless, is the fashionable dysfunction affecting most awards ceremonies throughout the artistic industries: the affliction often called “not enough new nominees.”

The breakfast announcement was a extra low-key occasion than final yr, when much was made of the revitalized and world nature of the awards, with Natalie Massenet, the council’s chairwoman, billing it as London’s reply to the Metropolitan Museum of Artwork’s Gala. But there have been plans for a cocktail celebration that night and an occasion for Hollywood insiders this week in Los Angeles.

As soon as once more, Jonathan Anderson dominated proceedings with 4 nominations (he had 4 in 2016, too). For his J.W. Anderson label, he was nominated in the Designer of the 12 months, British Designer of the 12 months Menswear and British Designer of the 12 months Womenswear classes. And for Loewe, the place he's artistic director, he was nominated as Equipment Designer of the 12 months.

As soon as once more, Alessandro Michele of Gucci was up for the equipment award (he gained it final yr), in addition to Designer of the 12 months. And as soon as once more, Gigi Hadid, winner of Mannequin of the 12 months in 2016, was again in the working, joined by her youthful sister Bella (on the listing final yr), Adwoa Aboah (on the listing final yr, too), and Kaia Gerber, the 16-year-outdated daughter of Cindy Crawford, who appeared on each main trend week runway final season.

And so it went. Guram Gvasalia, the chief govt of Vetements, was again as a nominee for Enterprise Chief. Vetements itself was up for the City Luxe Award (which it gained final yr).

Raf Simons for Calvin Klein was a brand new addition to the Designer of the 12 months shortlist, however then once more, this isn't his first look on the trend awards-scene rodeo; in June he gained each girls’s put on designer of the yr and males’s put on designer of the yr at the CFDA Awards in New York in June. Then there have been the salutes to Christopher Bailey of Burberry (males’s put on designer) and Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen (girls’s put on designer), each stalwarts of the scene who frankly would trigger extra of a stir at this stage in the event that they weren’t up for an award.

Because the viewers rose and ready to face the rain, one couldn’t assist however assume: for an trade whose raison d’être is an obsession with newness, the awards occasion scheduled for Dec. four on the Royal Albert Corridor, which likely can be uplifting and in the best spirit, is also working a excessive threat of feeling like extra of the identical.

Unsurprisingly, it was among the many British Rising Expertise classes, damaged into separate awards for males’s put on and ladies’s put on this yr, that some brisker faces lastly have been talked about: Charles Jeffrey for Charles Jeffrey Loverboy was nominated for the lads’s award, and Natalia Alaverdian for A.W.A.Okay.E, Michael Halpern and Rejina Pyo have been among the many girls’s put on nominees.

Attention-grabbing, too, was the inclusion of Supreme in the shortlist for City Luxe Model, because the skate put on model continues its cost nearer into the bosom of the style institution.

Maybe the most important shock — and most controversial alternative — was the nomination of Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior as Designer of the 12 months. Ms. Chiuri has been on the model’s helm for 3 seasons now, and a topic of essential debate for nearly as lengthy. Dior gross sales could also be strong however reviews of her collections have been blended (to place it mildly). Which raises some attention-grabbing questions in regards to the awards standards, and will make it probably the most-watched alternative of the night time, which is essentially a fund-elevating automobile for trend training grants.

Might the very best man, girl or worldwide conglomerate, win.