Justin O'Shea Debuts SSS World Corp With a Guerrilla Fashion Show in the Streets of Paris – GQ Magazine
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An unique first take a look at the debut assortment, plus an interview with Justin O’Shea.
Justin O'Shea received fired from Brioni lower than a yr in the past. At present he introduced a full assortment underneath his new label in Paris. The model known as SSS World Corp and the spring assortment, titled “Aloha From Hell,” is a journey into the thoughts backyard of a man who spent a number of years as a womenswear purchaser for My Theresa whereas honing his persona as a tatted-up, classic rock ’n’ curler and changing into one of the most photographed guys on the vogue circuit. O'Shea's flip at Brioni was his first shot as a inventive head, and whereas it was quick-lived (simply six months) it was a glimpse into the sort of fearless, menacing type that strikes him—it was impressed by pimps, gangsters, and Metallica, who additionally starred in the first advert marketing campaign.
SSS World Corp is, in a sense, what might have been at Brioni. However the enterprise mannequin is totally new—he's partnered with 032c for assistance on manufacturing and administration—and the positioning of the model might be a genius maneuver. "We need to deliver an edge of formality to streetwear," O'Shea mentioned once I met him early this morning at No Identify resort as he ready appears with stylist and 032c vogue editor Marc Goehring for his guerrilla vogue present. "Familiarity however completely different. At the finish of the day we don't need to recreate the wheel, we simply need to make it extra attention-grabbing." His plan is to construct a assortment that mixes excessive tailoring with streetwear sensibilities, with costs nearer to a model like Supreme. (Shirts for lower than $200, fits underneath $,00zero.) The primary drop is in October, and a few twenty shops throughout the globe have already purchased in, together with Selfridges, Maxfield, Ssense, The Webster, Slam Jam, and extra. It's a uncommon and engaging transfer for a model with a massive-identify inventive head. The key, in line with O'Shea is understanding the place to save lots of on prices (one thing he realized at My Theresa) whereas specializing in the really feel of the materials and the match of the clothes, relatively than costly supplies and constructions.
For the present, O'Shea invited a handful of individuals—a few journalists, a couple photographers, and his staff from 032c—to fulfill at 9:00AM sharp in entrance of the Ritz Lodge on Place Vendôme. He had a classic Ford pickup parked on the sq. (a uncommon sight in Paris), and SSS safety guards positioned round the crew. Snoop and The Melvins performed from the blown out audio system of a classic increase field. Fashions approached from round a nook, and when it was over O'Shea buzzed by on his motorbike for what could have been the first ever gasoline-powered designer bow.
The gathering consists of a few primary components—fits and overcoats, Hawaiian shirts, tees, sneakers and equipment. Sneakers made by Eytys, sun shades by Carerra, and plenty of jewellery in 18ok gold and sterling silver with mom of pearl crosses. All of the prints have been designed by O'Shea's pal and collaborator Benny Robinson—who additionally redesigned the Brioni brand for O'Shea—and featured zombie hula dancers, pot leaves, and pentagrams. Lots of the garments have been born immediately from O'Shea's private wardrobe—massive rodeo belt buckles like the ones he collects, a Mexican marriage ceremony shirt like the one he purchased for a few pesos whereas classic procuring with Rob and Kirk from Metallica. Then there are the items that O'Shea appears to have made simply to see who could have the balls to put on them. "Some individuals will simply go, Fuck, I would like a big Jaguar trench."
O'Shea's references come from popular culture, principally '90s and early '00s movie and music, and are all both conspicuously on the nostril (Worry and Loathing in Las Vegas, The Strokes) or unexpectedly retro (Beetlejuice, Religion No Extra). It's nearly not possible to think about any of the luxury brands showing in Paris drawing up O'Shea's temper board. It's nearer to one thing you'd discover tacked to the wall of a dorm room circa 2001 than in an workplace at LVMH or Kering.
O'Shea says that the assortment is in some methods an evolution of what he began at Brioni. "I spotted there's a higher option to do it," he mentioned. "Therefore the value factors and the matches. And getting out of my private consolation zone. I wanted to introduce a new aesthetic to make it not so strict. That's what provides it accessibility, and makes it extra distinctive."
O'Shea is making an attempt to occupy a house that appears to be vacant in menswear proper now—a line of designer-fronted vogue, introduced in Paris, however at reasonably priced costs and with the sheen of streetwear hype.
After the present the fashions all piled into the again of the Ford pickup for images. In the meantime, editors and patrons exiting the Comme des Garçon Shirt present throughout the sq. seemed on in perplexed surprise.