New Milan Exhibition to Trace Italian History Through Fashion – WWD



MILAN — Fashion as a mirrored image of society — and Italy seen from the style perspective — are the central premises of an exhibition to be held subsequent 12 months at Milan’s Royal Palace.

“Italiana. Narrating Italian History Through Fashion, 1971-2001,” was conceived and curated by critic, curator and professor Maria Luisa Frisa and W editor in chief Stefano Tonchi, and is promoted by Digicam Nazionale della Moda Italiana. The exhibition will probably be unveiled on Feb. 21, throughout Milan Fashion Week, and can run from the next day till Could 6.

“This can be a essential interval, fueled by the success of trend and life-style Made in Italy,” stated Frisa, referring to the years detailed within the exhibition. “The exhibit focuses not solely on Italian designers, but additionally on the nation’s manufacturing pipeline.” The 12 months 1971 marked the transition from high fashion to the rise of Italian ready-to-wear with the staging of Walter Albini’s first present in Milan, whereas 2001 refers to the Sept. 11 assaults, which “shook up the entire system.”

Tonchi stated Italiana “is an adjective, however on this case it’s a noun, like Americana — regrouping types and atmospheres of Italian tradition, with trend because the perspective.”

“We've been feeling the necessity to work on the historical past and tradition of Italian trend to perceive its current and what its strengths and issues are. If we see this in a historic perspective, we perceive what has outlined the trajectory of up to date trend,” Frisa defined.

Tonchi emphasised the pace with which Italian trend has responded to and interpreted social adjustments, selling democratization and tackling points resembling “androgyny, twin gender, the uniform for working girls, males’s new and extra delicate id, homosexuality, and the arrival of worldwide touring, with collections impressed by Africa, India and Morocco.” He additionally famous how Italian trend launched complete appears to be like and the idea of life-style, from Giorgio Armani to Prada and Versace. A number of manufacturers, he famous, have developed native histories and identities internationally, resembling Dolce & Gabbana with the Sicilian theme, Antonio Marras and the island of Sardinia, or Gianni Versace and his links with his hometown of Reggio Calabria, on the coronary heart of Magna Graecia.

“Italian trend will not be solely about goals, it additionally has a deep impression on day by day life,” famous Frisa.

The exhibition is not going to be chronological, however hinge on totally different themes and be illustrated by round 120 trend appears to be like and objects from trend, artwork, design, images and publishing.

Carlo Capasa, president of the Italian chamber of fashion, stated the exhibition would coincide with the affiliation’s 60th anniversary subsequent 12 months.

Throughout a presentation of the undertaking on Monday, Milan’s trend councilor Cristina Tajani stated the exhibit is an extra alternative to promote the town outdoors of Italy.

Federico Marchetti, chief executive officer of the Yoox Net-a-porter Group, the exhibit’s primary sponsor, stated the partnership was not purely monetary, however extra private. “We've been speaking about this undertaking for 2 or three years and within the determination, I listened to my coronary heart. In 1999, after I imagined Yoox, earlier than Wikipedia, the iPhone or Fb ever existed, I began from Italy as an entire outsider and designers helped carry my dream ahead,” stated Marchetti. “People who say that Italian trend designers usually are not courageous are flawed. I'm the dwelling instance, as this was a revolutionary undertaking that was embraced by the Italians even earlier than the French, so this can be a manner to categorical my gratitude. When it comes to enterprise, Italy weighs lower than the U.S. or the U.Ok., however Made in Italy [products] account for many of the gross sales.”

Pomellato can also be a sponsor of the exhibit and inventive director Vincenzo Castaldo famous how Pino Rabolini, who based the agency in 1967, contributed to the evolution of the Italian trend system by “bringing the idea of ready-to-wear in jewellery,” and emphasizing the label’s connection to Milan.

Maria Luisa Frisa;Vincenzo Castaldo;Carlo Capasa;Cristina Tajani;Stefano Tonchi;Federico Marchetti

Maria Luisa Frisa, Vincenzo Castaldo, Carlo Capasa, Cristina Tajani, Stefano Tonchi and Federico Marchetti.  Ph. Stefano Trovati/SGP

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New Milan Exhibition to Trace Italian History Through Fashion - WWD