A 12 months in the past Rihanna took her style line Fenty x Puma, solely in its second season, to Paris — maybe in quest of some design legitimacy; maybe as a result of Puma is owned by Kering, which is predicated in the metropolis; or maybe as a result of she’s Rihanna, and she will be able to.
No matter the purpose, she had a surprisingly profitable run (stunning as a result of when her fellow musician-cum-designer Kanye West did the similar, it didn't go so nicely; France has a wholesome skepticism of the celeb type arriviste), and on Sunday evening she rode that success again into New York. Actually, thanks to 3 freestyle motocross racers who somersaulted their manner over big mounds of sparkly pink sand to begin her present. Which was … a celebration of maximum sports activities garments! Vroom.
O.Ok., delicate she shouldn't be.
Additionally scuba fits, bike shorts, monitor pants, moto leathers and physique-baring maillots mixed in a nylon, neon and navy blue mash-up of strut-your-stuff sports activities and angle. Did her Paris sojourn make a distinction in her garments? Nah. Rihanna modifications the metropolis; the metropolis doesn't change Rihanna. Amongst all the examples of that unusual modern phenomenon often called the celeb designer — and their numbers are rising — she is one thing of a legislation unto herself.
In contrast to Kanye, she didn't equate herself with the geniuses of silhouette, and drown her clothes in bombast. In contrast to Victoria Beckham and not like Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen of The Row, she didn't humble herself earlier than the consultants and work diligently to achieve their respect, giving up her different profession to toil away in the atelier. Certainly, she appears to be buying extra careers virtually each month (as of final week: magnificence mogul). And but she doesn’t appear to be dialing it in. She’s having enjoyable. She actually regarded prefer it, anyway, using round the runway on the again of a dust bike and blowing kisses for her bow.
It’s an underrated dimension in style of late, although not fully absent.
Diane Von Furstenberg gave the impression to be having time, too, for instance, at the presentation of the newest assortment for her model from its artistic director, Jonathan Saunders. That’s what occurs, apparently, whenever you lastly handle to pass the reins to somebody you belief, and can consider different stuff.
She was hanging out at the aspect of the runway with the visitors, watching the present, which had been impressed by the Warhol Manufacturing facility woman Jane Forth, who was additionally Ms. Von Furstenberg’s first mannequin. The silhouette was flowy and handkerchief-hemmed, the colours ’70s shiny. There have been a number of stripes and shine (typically shiny stripes).
“I’ve seen bits and items over the final week,” Ms. Von Furstenberg stated, “however that is the first time I’m seeing all of it.” A mannequin in a cropped khaki jacket and lengthy sunshine-yellow skirt chevroned in two layers of dramatic fringe with a slash of sheer inbetween walked by, and Ms. Von Furstenberg gasped. “That’s a killer!” she stated fortunately. She was into the fringe.
“He will get it,” she added, referring to Mr. Saunders and the cheerful self-empowerment that drove her model. She is correct.
It’s additionally, in fact, a part of the subtext of every thing Rihanna does, and has change into the focus of Prabal Gurung, expressed largely by way of range of measurement and sexuality on the runway. That’s factor, as had been the slinky ribbed knit clothes with a buttoned-in waist that might be unbuttoned at will to reveal numerous bits of flesh. Much less so the “technical crepe” jackets, shorts and trench coats with corsetry boned into the physique, which had been heavy handed.
And it was the partly the theme of the dance efficiency that Opening Ceremony supplied in lieu of a conventional present.
Entitled “Changers” and held in La MaMa, the East Village experimental theater, the efficiency was written and directed by Spike Jonze (of “Her” fame), choreographed by Ryan Heffington (of Sia’s “Chandelier” fame) and starred Mia Wasikowska (“Alice in Wonderland”) and Lakeith Stanfield (“Atlanta”), in addition to a lot of items from the Opening Ceremony assortment.
The garments labored with the story line, which needed to do with a cheerful couple who change into much less pleased when she begins to unfold her wings, discover her sexuality and change her outfits — no extra cutesy little plaid clothes and pink peacoats! Striped physique-con knits and chilly-shoulder devoré velvets as a substitute!
They develop aside and boogie with others, and lastly a brand new steadiness of energy is discovered. Girl ascendant.
It’s a promising premise, however the realization largely resembled one thing your supercool sophomore trendy dance troupe may need dreamed up at 2 a.m. after an evening of debating Betty Friedan over tequila photographs. It didn’t assist that the two major dance strikes had been strikingly just like the funky rooster and the operating man, or that the garments themselves had a notably classic air.
(Against this, the Sies Marjan assortment by Sander Lak of clothes and separates — together with a capsule assortment of males’s put on — in saturated rainbow shades pretty danced round the physique, and begged to be seen in motion.)
The Opening Ceremony designers, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, and their collaborators most likely had a number of enjoyable creating the present, and the stars get factors for effort and for dressing and undressing on stage, however all that hipness could be awfully stultifying. In the finish, it didn’t look that a lot enjoyable to put on.