Y OH Y:Y/Project’s rising star simply ascended a notch increased with the buzzy label — a key participant in Paris’ new guard — scooping the 2017 ANDAM Grand Prize at a ceremony on the French Ministry of Tradition right here Friday, on the eve of couture week in Paris.
Within the crowd had been a lot of business gamers and designers together with AMI’s Alexandre Mattiussi and final 12 months’s winner, Wanda Nylon’s Johanna Senyk who threw her arms round Y/Project’s artistic director Glenn Martens. “I at all times say, profitable ANDAM was a bit like if you fall in love with somebody, this sense that something is feasible,” she mentioned.
The award’s endowment of $280,000 comes at a vital time for Y/Project which is within the technique of restructuring because it strikes into its subsequent part, with new manufacturing facility companions in France and Portugal amongst current developments.
“We’re rising quick and it’s extraordinarily troublesome to maintain up with all of the requests. Now we have no backers and it’s like, every single day ready for the outlets to provide us their pre-funds. This can be a large deal for us, it’s positively going to assist,” mentioned an elated trying Martens.
The Paris-primarily based designer, who grew up within the Belgian metropolis of Bruges and attended Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Advantageous Arts, made vogue fame along with his deconstructed denim that may be ruched or folded again to create a wader impact. He likes to tumble collectively disparate references, from classical tailoring to streetwear to offbeat historic references. A grasp at utilizing deconstruction strategies to create new clothes, Martens can also be identified for his exaggerated swirling volumes, although his newest assortment was extra managed in its execution.
For one 12 months, the designer can even profit from a mentorship by Francesca Bellettini, president and chief govt officer of Yves Saint Laurent, masking each the artistic and strategic dimensions of his enterprise. “Glenn Martens has the expertise, creativity and keenness to be one of many designers that may contribute to preserving vogue related,” mentioned Bellettini. “Collectively we are going to attempt to outline the construction and setting to optimize his future and subsequent alternatives to develop. I stay up for embracing this new thrilling problem collectively.”
The designer can even be sprinkled with 10,000 euros’ value of crystals from Swarovski for use throughout the 12 months following his fellowship.
This 12 months’s Artistic Label prize — value $112,000 — went to the fledgling Paris-primarily based indie label Avoc, which is able to obtain a 12 months’s value of mentoring on its digital and communication technique from Ruth Chapman, cofounder and co-govt chairman of Matchesfashion.com, in addition to mentoring classes from the shopping for groups of Galeries Lafayette. The retailer can even purchase the model’s subsequent two collections, giving it prime placement in its Paris flagship’s area devoted to younger creation. “There was one thing about the entire manufacturers that [were in the running], however when [Avoc founders Laura Do and Bastien Laurent] spoke, they received our hearts, it was a landslide as a result of they had been so compelling by way of their imaginative and prescient for the model, the place they got here from. There was little doubt that they had been going to succeed,” mentioned Chapman.
The Equipment Design Prize, which comes with a grant of $56,000, went to Brazilian jewellery designer Ana Khouri. Scooping the occasion’s new prize vogue innovation, in the meantime, value $33,000, was sensible mannequins specialist Euveka. The model will obtain a 12 months’s value of mentoring from Pascal Morand, govt president of La Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, who can also be a member of the French Nationwide Academy of Applied sciences.
A 25-member jury composed of vogue executives, editors, actresses and fashions chosen the victors, with Chapman, Morand and Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou among the many new members.
ANDAM is financially supported by 17 non-public and institutional companions. The grand prize is open to designers of any nationality keen to ascertain a enterprise in France. The French acronym for the Nationwide Affiliation for the Growth of the Style Arts, ANDAM was based in 1989 by Nathalie Dufour, with the assist of the French authorities and with Pierre Bergé as president. ANDAM has been a springboard for an array of designers who would go on to realize worldwide recognition, together with Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Christophe Lemaire and Jeremy Scott.